Guess What's on This Week's Auction

I can't believe I have never seen one of these before and now I see two in two weeks!

  My first thought was that this is the same item on the two-weeks-ago auction that someone either didn't pick up or is trying to flip for a profit since the previous auction was "General Estate" and this week it's "Antiques and Collectibles" but I don't see the kneebar hanging down nor the second kneebar on the tabletop.  The sewing head appears to be in about the same cosmetic condition.  I tried to compare the scrapes and scratches in the two photos but that's difficult because the previous photo was taken from the front of the table and this one from the back. I do notice that the machine is backward, the needle end should be at the long end of the table, not the short end. -Ed

Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine Store

Elna Supermatic

  Trolling through the only thrift shop in this one-horse town, I saw a metal case which I almost passed up until I saw the open latch.

  Elnas are not common in this area, but I have seen a few and knew that carrying case did not hold a manual typewriter, as I had first thought.  Inside was a vintage Elna Supermatic.

  It is dirty but came with a zip-lock bag full of goodies:  Several instruction manuals and advertising pamphlets

  A baggie of presser feet and other accessories

  The knee bar which is necessary because it is the only means of powering the machine, there is no foot control.

  And a few cams

  At $2 apiece, the cams alone are worth more than I paid for the machine!

  The machine runs, although slowly, and the only problem I see initially is that the presser bar is frozen and the presser foot will not raise. A little penetrating oil should fix that.  Now to go clean it up and play a little.

LATER THAT SAME DAY:

  Apparently more was frozen than the presser bar (which is now functional) because there was literally a pool of brown oil in the bottom of the freearm. Some of it leaked out when I had the head tipped over to remove the bottom plate, but there was still lots left.  

I have oiled many machines in my time but this was the first time I had to DE-OIL one!

It's all cleaned up and sewing, ready for fine-tuning. 

 It growls and rattles a bit, probably just need to find the right spot to lubricate.  Also, it runs fast with no fabric under the foot but slows to a crawl when sewing.  Sounds like something is slipping in the drive train.

Ed's Old Sewing Machine Shop

Necchi Supernova Tension Release Adjustment

Frank was also having a problem with the upper tension release.  He said the disc opening lever “N” in the figure below that is supposed to press the disc opening rod in the back of the tension assembly was not close enough to the end of the release rod to do its job and release the upper tension.  If his machine had the tension assembly removed for any reason or the tension knob had been bumped, the position of the tension mechanism could be incorrect.

Hopefully, this procedure will correct that problem.

It is very important to check whether the position of the tension mechanism is correct.

-          Set the presser bar lever in its intermediate (embroidery) position.

-          Check that the disc opening rod “B” in the below figure is as close as possible to the disc opening lever “N” without actually touching.

-          Ensure that the thread take-up spring can move freely without rubbing against the machine arm.  Distance “a” in the below figure should be about 1/16” (1.5mm)

If an adjustment is needed, loosen screw 048050 GEB and move the entire tension mechanism along its axis (do not rotate it) then tighten screw 048050 GEB firmly.

Ed

Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine Shop

Removing a Supernova Balance Wheel

The first time I had to remove the balance wheel from a Necchi Supernova, I was a bit confused.  I removed the nut but there was no torque washer underneath and the balance wheel would not come off the shaft tail.  When I finally learned, I took photos and now Frank is having the same issue so I decided to post those photos to help Frank and anyone else who hasn't figured this out yet.

STEP 1 - Loosen the two screws in the knurled nut and unscrew.

STEP 2 - The entire inner circle is the torque washer.

STEP 3 - Slide the washer off the shaft.

STEP 4 - Remove the belt and slide the balance wheel off the shaft tail.

Installation is the reverse of removal. If the balance wheel does not spin freely when winding a bobbin, try swapping the two screws in the knurled nut. One is longer than the other and that's how Necchi solved the problem of the torque washer being installed backward.

Ed

Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine Shop
Kathie's Online Quilt Shop

Auction Update

We went to the auction last night and I'm glad I'm not in the beginning phases of collecting sewing machines, because I probably would have had to make two trips to carry home all my purchases in my minivan.

The first machine up for bids turned out to be a Wheeler & Wilson W9. This is kind of a landmark model because it was the last domestic machine made by W&W before Singer took over their plant and switched it to industrial machines. The 'W' in Singer industrial model numbers like 111W155 indicate they were made at the former Wheeler & Wilson factory.  Regardless of the collectability, this machine only brought $45.

Next was the Singer 15 in a 6-drawer cabinet sitting next to the W&W.  

Being a more recognizable name and in obviously better cosmetic condition, bidding ended at $65.

After a delay while they auctioned off tray lots and box lots of household items, they came to the Martha Washington sewing cabinet.  

We have two of those and paid over $100 for each.  This one needs some love but appears to be in original condition.  It only brought $40.

Last, they got to the Singer 99-13 portable in the drop-in table.  I got a chance to look underneath during the preview and learned that that kneebar hanging down below the table is physically connected to the machine, not a separate controller. Space was tight under there and I didn't have a flashlight so I couldn't investigate further.

This was the only machine I even considered bidding on solely because of the uniqueness of the table but bidding got to $85 and I was unwilling to spend that more than that for a very common machine in an intriguing table.

I had hoped there would be some vintage sewing attachments and accessories separate from the machines.  There were several boxes of sewing "stuff" but it was just thread, needles, binding and other notions I would never use, so I didn't even stay to see what they sold for.  For an evening's entertainment, I spent $1.95 for a soft drink and came home empty-handed.

http://www.etsy.com/shop/OldSewingMachines

http://www.etsy.com/shop/OldeTowneStitchery

Auction

I was surfing the local auction website to see what is up for sale Friday evening.  First thing I noticed was this neat little table designed to hold a Singer 99 in the beehive case without removing the head from the base.  I have been collecting old sewing machine for over 40 years and have never seen a table like this.

  I see a kneebar on the machine and a knee control under the table, I have no idea how the machine is controlled when it is mounted in the table.

  Next, I saw these two machines

  and this cabinet

  I'm beyond black straight stitchers and don't have space for treadles but with all those vintage sewing machines, this must be the estate of someone who sewed for many years and there might be some other vintage sewing paraphernalia worth bidding on.  I just might have to go and scope it out.

http://www.etsy.com/shop/OldSewingMachines

http://www.etsy.com/shop.OldeTowneStitchery

Big Thread, Little Spool Pin

This is not specifically about sewing machines, but closely related:

When we had the store, we stocked the large 1200 yard spools of Star Thread made by Coats and Clark.

 The problem buyers encountered was that the hole through the center of the spool is 5/8 inch in diameter, the spools wiggled and rattled when installed on the sewing machine's spool pin and the thread unwould unevenly.

  My solution is to use a thread stand but not everyone wants to carry a thread stand along on sew-ins and retreats.  We still have a couple of dozen spools of Star and it's not selling in Kathie's Etsy store so it looks like we are going to have to use it up ourselves.

  I went to the local home improvement store and picked up some tubing with a 1/4 inch inside diameter and 3/8 inch outside diameter for about 21 cents per foot. That was not large enough to fill the hole, so I also picked up some other tubing with 3/8 inch inside diameter and 1/2 inch outside diameter for about 39 cents per foot.

  I slipped the smaller tubing inside the larger tubing for 2 1/2 inches (the length of the Star spool) and sliced it off with a utility knife.

  The 1/4" inside tube fits snugly over my spool pin and the 1/2" outer tubing takes up most of the space inside the Star spool so there is less rattle and the thread comes off the spool more evenly.

 I can make 5 inserts for 60 cents worth of tubing.  Maybe providing an insert with each spool of thread will spur some sales, I already have enough thread to last my lifetime.

http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines
http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldetownestitchery

Singer Foot Control

Yesterday, I took in an old Singer 327k that was having a problem with the foot control. 

It had been retrofitted with a clamshell type foot control and, many times the owner would step on the pedal and nothing would happen. My first thought was a loose connection in the foot control or a bad wire between the foot control and the motor but neither turned out to be the issue.

To troubleshoot, you have to access the inside of the speed control.  Turn the control over and pop off the big round cap.  Remove the screw beneath and the other screw over by the hinge. BEFORE OPENING THE FOOT CONTROL, DISCONNECT POWER. EVERY PIECE OF METAL INSIDE THAT FOOT CONTROL IS "HOT" AT ONE TIME OR ANOTHER!

Many of these old Singer speed controllers use the carbon pile method of regulation. A ceramic cylinder is filled with smaller-than-dime-size graphite discs.  

At one end of the cylinder is a stationary contact that serves a secondary purpose of holding the stack of carbon discs in place.  

At the other end of the cylinder is a movable contact that pushes on the carbon pile when the pedal is pressed.

When the discs are at rest, they provide such a high level of resistance that no current flows to the motor.  When the pedal is depressed and the discs are squeezed together, they allow current to flow to the motor.  The tighter they are squeezed, the more current flows to the motor and the faster it runs.

When the pedal is fully depressed, an internal set of contacts in the speed control by-passes the carbon pile and shoots maximum current directly from the wall outlet to the motor.  

Knowing this gives a hint on troubleshooting a speed control - If nothing happens until the pedal is fully depressed and then the motor runs at full speed, the issue is with the carbon pile or other rheostat used in regulating speed.

In this instance, I could see that no matter how much the pedal was pressed, the carbon pile was not being squeezed.  It turned out that the stationary contact was bent and not holding up its end of the bargain.  When the pedal was pressed, the carbon pile just slid to the other end of the cylinder without being compressed.  No current was allowed to flow, so the motor didn't budge.  

It took a couple of tries to bend the stationary contact to just the right spot - too much to the left and the motor hummed, even with the pedal not pressed; too much to the right and the motor didn't move until the pedal was almost to the floor.

You don't want current flowing to the motor when the pedal is at rest because heat could build up and cause a fire.  A voltmeter would be a handy tool to determine the proper adjustment, but if you can see an air gap between either contact and the corresponding end of the carbon pile, no current is flowing.

http://www.etsy.com/shop/OldSewingMachines
http://www.etsy.com/shop/OldeTowneStitchery 

Update

Lots has happened in the past few weeks.

We closed the quilt shop. After 18 months with not a single profitable month, we got tired of continuously pouring our savings into stock, rent, and other expenses and pulled the plug.  It took two weeks to bring all the remaining stock and fixtures home and now we are trying to sort it all out.  Kathie should not need to buy fabric for years to come.

I have been loading the remaining stock into Kathie's Etsy shop at discounted prices.  A link is at the side of the page.

I split off my vintage sewing machine items from Kathie's store and set up my own Etsy shop with just sewing machine-related items. I have lots more to list but it's a start. I have placed a link to my shop at the side of the page, also.

I have eight Singer motors waiting to be re-wired but won't get to them anytime soon.

The 66 is Finally Finished!

  I spent most of the day putting the finishing touches on this machine.  All I had left was the tension assembly and the bobbin winder and it would be ready for testing.  The bobbin winder went without a hitch. I love those old bobbin winders with the guide finger that precisely positions the thread winding on the bobbin so it comes out perfect. I'm sure that economics was the reason they were replaced with the lower quality contraptions on later machines because there are  many more parts and moving parts on the older winders.

  On to the tension assembly - when I separated the tension discs, there was a piece of thread lodged between them, possibly the cause of some previous tension problems.

  I cleaned and reassembled the tension assembly and installed it. It regulated tension all right, but did not release when the presser foot was raised. Do you see anything wrong with this tension assembly component?

  Neither did I the first time around but I knew there should be some piece with a bar passing between the sides of the split stud. The pin in the tension assembly needs something to push against to release the spring pressure from the outer disc.  The part should look like the one on the right here

  I threaded it and found that the upper thread would not pull up the bobbin thread.  The hook was a bit out of time from being disassembled for cleaning. After re-timing the hook, the machine seemed to be binding. I had adjusted the feed dog centering and tightened the screw back down too tight. with the machine running smoothly and sewing like it shoud, I noticed that one of the motor wires had a gap in its insulation so I had to replace the motor again and find a belt to fit. It seemed like it was one thing after another and took all day. We are in the middle of an ice storm, so I wasn't going anywhere anyway, but I could have found other tings to do with the time.

Here is the finished product. Not the best looking machine I have ever put out the door but considering the condition it arrived in, not too bad.