tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269750012024-03-19T04:48:44.195-04:00Vintage Sewing MachinesA large number of people have discovered the benefits of older sewing machines. Whether it's because they are simple enough to maintain and repair with common handtools, or strong enough to sew thicker fabrics without hesitation, or just because they are plentiful, cheap, and fun to collect. This site is dedicated to passing on information to make your experience more enjoyable.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.comBlogger141125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-53967169267705212212018-07-13T22:59:00.000-04:002018-07-13T23:00:15.241-04:00The Latest News<br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Wow! I just realized that it has been 8 months since I last
posted.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>We bought a fixer-upper house
last summer </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-37pntLXloFY/W0llvCs-aXI/AAAAAAAAB-Q/8acFRGrDV_sigfR_kCw6bbUqxpZJkSCSgCEwYBhgL/s1600/genMid.SM10293503_0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="441" data-original-width="665" height="212" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-37pntLXloFY/W0llvCs-aXI/AAAAAAAAB-Q/8acFRGrDV_sigfR_kCw6bbUqxpZJkSCSgCEwYBhgL/s320/genMid.SM10293503_0.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri";">and my attention has been focused on painting, repairing, buying
appliances, flooring, cooktop and countertop.<span style="margin: 0px;">
</span>When the new gas cooktop was installed, we found that the gas line
buried in the concrete slab foundation had corroded and was leaking.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>We had to have a new gas line run through the
attic and down to the kitchen.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri";"> We
finally have everything the way we want it and what did we do?<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Decided we would prefer to live in
Florida!<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>On Tuesday, we listed the house
for sale with Century 21; on Wednesday, a family toured it and wrote an offer;
on Thursday, we accepted the offer.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Now,
we are scurrying to figure out what to do with all our “stuff”.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Do we want to ship it to Florida or get rid
of it?<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>We already have a fully-furnished
home in Florida, so we don’t NEED anything there but we might want to replace
some of the Florida furniture with what’s in Maryland.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Anyway, we have six weeks to figure it out
and get it done.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri";"> That brings me back on topic.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>I am no longer going to have space to store 80
parts machines and shelves of new reproduction parts so I have shut down Old
Sewing Machines store on Etsy and am listing everything on eBay just to get rid of it.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Anything that’s not sold by July 21<sup>st</sup>
gets donated to a friend who will give them a good home.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SzUzIgTOOm0/W0llo0MfVKI/AAAAAAAAB-I/ma09Vd0Qdpo6wAXijgQNREAQC3WMmHEUACEwYBhgL/s1600/s-l500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="375" data-original-width="500" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SzUzIgTOOm0/W0llo0MfVKI/AAAAAAAAB-I/ma09Vd0Qdpo6wAXijgQNREAQC3WMmHEUACEwYBhgL/s320/s-l500.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri";"> <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>If you want to see what I have listed on
eBay, click </span><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Singer-221-Featherweight-Goodie-Package/332715207767?hash=item4d775f2c57:g:otcAAOSwwG1bOns2" target="_blank">Featherweight Goodie Package</a>. When you get to the listing of the Featherweight Goodie Package, click "See Other Items" on the right side of the screen and all my listings will appear. I might still have more things to list, so check back but all my auctions will be ended the evening of July 20.</div>
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Ed</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-59042739895640676332017-11-21T16:00:00.000-05:002017-11-21T16:00:07.997-05:00Back On Line
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> I was trolling the local Habitat for Humanity ReStore this
morning and saw something I didn’t know existed – a blackside Singer
15-91!<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a90C4pe-mz4/WhSRpKCxMuI/AAAAAAAAB8s/DR2hZG0vyQgt1sij1pgIo_B3BH35J1qYACLcBGAs/s1600/Blackside%2B15-91.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a90C4pe-mz4/WhSRpKCxMuI/AAAAAAAAB8s/DR2hZG0vyQgt1sij1pgIo_B3BH35J1qYACLcBGAs/s320/Blackside%2B15-91.jpg" width="290" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a90C4pe-mz4/WhSRpKCxMuI/AAAAAAAAB8s/DR2hZG0vyQgt1sij1pgIo_B3BH35J1qYACLcBGAs/s1600/Blackside%2B15-91.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I know that several Singer models
received the blackside treatment on faceplate, slide plate, and needle plate from 1941 to 1953 but had only seen it on 128s,
66s, and 99s.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>According to the Bluebook,
the 15-91 was manufactured from 1933 to 1956 so the production was within the
period of blackside machines, but in my 40 plus years of collecting vintage
sewing machines, I have never seen a model 15 in blackside. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>I thought about buying it but after considering <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>condition, price, and space to put it, I let
it stay.</span></div>
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I have not been very faithful in posting on this blog or
answering questions because I have had other priorities.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>We sold our big house and bought two small
houses – one in Maryland for summers and another in Florida for winters.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>The Maryland house was a fixer-upper and
required much work.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Patching and paint
on every paintable surface, all new flooring, all new appliances, leaking
toilets and other things.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Then we
discovered that the gas line to the cooktop was leaking and, since the line is buried
inside the concrete slab foundation, we had to have a new line run through the
attic.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>We still need to get that line
boxed in to get it out of sight.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>About
the time we got things kinda wrapped up in Maryland, we went to Florida just in
time to have Hurricane Irma blow the carport off that house.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="margin: 0px;"></span>Fortunately, there was almost no damage to
the house (just a small puncture in the roof) but it has been about ten weeks
now and the contractor has not come to replace the carport.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I will probably not be posting as often as I used to because
I just don’t have much to talk about.<span style="margin: 0px;">
</span>All my vintage sewing machines are gone and the supply seems to have
dried up around here.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>I occasionally see
a rusty hulk that was probably pulled out of a barn after decades of storage
and a few Asian machines but nothing that sparks my interest.</span></div>
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-88509564909341808922017-07-02T10:36:00.001-04:002017-07-02T10:36:29.162-04:00The Final Two Weeks in the Old HouseWe are getting down to brass tacks now, runs to the landfill every couple of days disposing of things I held onto for years in case "I might need that some day". We have sold everything anyone would buy and given away other items to individuals and thrift shops and now, it's off to the landfill with what's left. I am going to post a classified ad today for the remainder of my collection<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JvDeNMrBOuM/WVax8dOjf_I/AAAAAAAAB70/zkSu8mDzikcbfMxi4lz8qolxYnVbvRmAgCLcBGAs/s1600/GEDC0499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1026" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JvDeNMrBOuM/WVax8dOjf_I/AAAAAAAAB70/zkSu8mDzikcbfMxi4lz8qolxYnVbvRmAgCLcBGAs/s320/GEDC0499.JPG" width="205" /></a></div>
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and I am listing lots on eBay because they need to be gone in a week and I can't count on Etsy to accomplish that.<br />
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UPDATE: I got a phone call about an hour after posting the classified ad. A lady whose Mother collects vintage sewing machines came over and made an offer on the whole lot! Her Mother's birthday is coming up soon and her daughter wants to surprise her.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ABOcIA_x5w0/WVkEem_WXDI/AAAAAAAAB8E/aArZpYOBO4QQqv6cxx7qflpdOpcTX7_PQCLcBGAs/s1600/MTShelf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="714" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ABOcIA_x5w0/WVkEem_WXDI/AAAAAAAAB8E/aArZpYOBO4QQqv6cxx7qflpdOpcTX7_PQCLcBGAs/s320/MTShelf.jpg" width="228" /></a></div>
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I hope the classified ad I placed for my Singer 111W155 is as successful.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3XgaLsGhoPQ/WVkEzc2l0AI/AAAAAAAAB8I/PG2U7FsmOY4bl0yWsRdNGwfKICWueF9twCLcBGAs/s1600/111W155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="782" data-original-width="1600" height="156" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3XgaLsGhoPQ/WVkEzc2l0AI/AAAAAAAAB8I/PG2U7FsmOY4bl0yWsRdNGwfKICWueF9twCLcBGAs/s320/111W155.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I ran across these black Class 66 bobbins the other day and just listed them along with seven other items. I will be furiously listing everything I can find in the next week because it all has to be gone by July 13th.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H9vY9OxTgoA/WVahQiNnvbI/AAAAAAAAB7k/YpO4uAU66lce3qdbjjTlclrZFIOIOo9HwCEwYBhgL/s1600/66%2BClass%2BBlack%2BBobbins.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="836" data-original-width="1000" height="267" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H9vY9OxTgoA/WVahQiNnvbI/AAAAAAAAB7k/YpO4uAU66lce3qdbjjTlclrZFIOIOo9HwCEwYBhgL/s320/66%2BClass%2BBlack%2BBobbins.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/332287535231?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649" target="_blank">Vintage Class 66 Bobbins</a></div>
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To see everything I have currently listed, click here <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/edlam/m.html?item=332287535231&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562" target="_blank">All of Ed's eBay Listings</a><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-18821258487445860772017-06-18T11:42:00.000-04:002017-06-18T11:42:06.074-04:00Another "What-Is-It" Item<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v5P2dhcsw7o/WUaerKUJwJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KohCZU-V4ic-EyRhDpKmFf5OZ4L6AW4CwCLcBGAs/s1600/GEDC0473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="953" data-original-width="810" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v5P2dhcsw7o/WUaerKUJwJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KohCZU-V4ic-EyRhDpKmFf5OZ4L6AW4CwCLcBGAs/s320/GEDC0473.JPG" width="271" /></a></div>
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I bought these presser feet on eBay years ago. I believe they were listed as Viking quilting feet. Since Kathie is a quilter and the price was right, I picked them up in case I later ran across a Viking that they would fit. I never did and now it's time to bid them farewell but I really don't know what they are. I have Googled images for "embroidery foot" and "quilting foot" with no positive results. Can anyone help?<br />
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EdAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-69729071600121222752017-04-30T07:52:00.000-04:002017-04-30T07:52:09.346-04:00More on Downsizing The clean-out continues. Today, I dug out all my Singer "Top Hat" decorative stitch cams. During my 45 years of collecting sewing machines, every time I saw a set of Singer attachments, I picked it up. Also, many of the Singers I obtained came with attachments. I was shocked at the number when I dug them out and arranged them in numerical order<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4cURqZkQb4k/WQUo6yap5JI/AAAAAAAAB4Q/32GHojurKBwdpY4gLDGmk3Dd9qSBafmZACLcB/s1600/AllCams.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4cURqZkQb4k/WQUo6yap5JI/AAAAAAAAB4Q/32GHojurKBwdpY4gLDGmk3Dd9qSBafmZACLcB/s320/AllCams.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Also, I was amazed that with all those cams, I only have one complete set. Noticeably missing is the Zero cam that produces the standard zig zag stitch on machines that do not have zig zag built in. My only Zero cam is currently installed in a 403.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S_Cj3GaveG0/WQUo2Rpt-QI/AAAAAAAAB4M/J-YmnrmrFaMnrmG01cAFvqLPQ14XG_hmwCLcB/s1600/Cams1to23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S_Cj3GaveG0/WQUo2Rpt-QI/AAAAAAAAB4M/J-YmnrmrFaMnrmG01cAFvqLPQ14XG_hmwCLcB/s320/Cams1to23.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I never use these cams, All my sewing is straight stitch and zig zag with an occasional buttonhole thrown in so they will all be listed in my <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">My Etsy Shop</a></div>
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Ed</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-46755203055791443422017-04-23T18:51:00.000-04:002017-04-23T18:51:50.819-04:00Downsizing in Preparation for Retirement As I approach my 72nd birthday, Kathie and I find that it is time to rid ourselves of our 5 bedroom, 3 1/2 bath, 3-story house and look for a home offering one level living. We will list our home for sale tomorrow and have spent the last month "de-cluttering". Because the next house will be smaller, we also must downsize our space-consuming hobbies. Kathie will probably lose her longarm quilting machine and I have to find new homes for many of the machines, parts, tools, and manuals that I have been hoarding for the past 45 years.<br />
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To that end, I have started listing in <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">My Etsy Shop</a> some tools, manuals, and parts that I would not let go before now. <br />
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My goal is to list four additional items or lots per day until everything of value is gone.<br />
<br />
Because I don't know how much time I will have before I have to clear out this house, I plan to leave these items on Etsy for about a month, then transition any leftovers to eBay. Anything that doesn't sell on eBay will go to the landfill.<br />
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I also have a collection of miniature sewing machines that don't fit the criteria for Etsy.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iNeVtSTdalU/WP0s7Tj3ZDI/AAAAAAAAB38/3qLRJvfimBwxCxnCua8yQfg28bCG0IA-ACLcB/s1600/Mini%2BCollection.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="161" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iNeVtSTdalU/WP0s7Tj3ZDI/AAAAAAAAB38/3qLRJvfimBwxCxnCua8yQfg28bCG0IA-ACLcB/s320/Mini%2BCollection.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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They range from 1 inch high to about 4 inches high. They are in as-found condition, some new, some used. One with a bear has the bear broken loose and will need to be re-glued. If you think you might be interested in this grouping, email me at oldsewingmachines@gmail.com.<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-8693621664053748372016-12-01T19:11:00.000-05:002016-12-01T19:11:09.098-05:00Dual Needle Industrial Machine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeyRYPvBdBDsOs4o3O6ZDSsi9w8kJV3vQ5u00ON9qMs_SDFjVcYcQLXdg5btvAlSiUOulvBF-mneo8kQSpxBqFLeG_hgmaB7P_-VqXPZEnGTkLt11CblXtdB_TfS4qIH12eZCj/s1600/GEDC0285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeyRYPvBdBDsOs4o3O6ZDSsi9w8kJV3vQ5u00ON9qMs_SDFjVcYcQLXdg5btvAlSiUOulvBF-mneo8kQSpxBqFLeG_hgmaB7P_-VqXPZEnGTkLt11CblXtdB_TfS4qIH12eZCj/s320/GEDC0285.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri";">A few years ago, I was making lanyards to sell at craft
shows that required a double stitch and I picked up this 1951 Singer 112W140 to cut
my sewing time in half.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">As it turned
out, the double needles were not spaced correctly for my project, so I picked
up an eBay lot of gauge sets (presser foot, throat plate, needle clamp, and
feed dog) to fit onto my machine.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">About
that time, demand for my lanyards dried up and I no longer had a reason to
change the spacing of the needles on my machine and never installed another
gauge set.</span></div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=26975001" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Here’s my problem:</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">When
my auction lot arrived, they were all just thrown in a box.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Most of the gauge sets and individual pieces are
unidentifiable.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">As far as I can tell,
they are all for Singers and I think I have 20+ full or partial sets.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">The two in the bottom right corner of the
photo are still wrapped in oil paper and apparently have never been used, many
of the others also appear unused and none look like they would not be usable.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ywWiWcZ_bws/WEC57OGf5dI/AAAAAAAAB3M/bA76ZxVCSqAN6FyyFzF58GE4BTLVqvOWACLcB/s1600/GEDC0284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="249" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ywWiWcZ_bws/WEC57OGf5dI/AAAAAAAAB3M/bA76ZxVCSqAN6FyyFzF58GE4BTLVqvOWACLcB/s320/GEDC0284.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Some of the pieces bear Simanco part numbers but many do not
have any part number.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Some, but not all
are tied together as sets, some are in boxes with Singer model numbers (212W140
& 112W115) written on the boxes but I do not trust those markings. The rest
are just individual pieces.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">I spent
hours today on the internet trying to find a way to identify all the sets and pieces and match them to the
model of Singer they go to so I could list them in my Etsy shop or on eBay but
had no luck.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">If anyone could provide, or
point me to a source for identifying these parts, I would appreciate it.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">If anyone wants any of them, I will make you
a GREAT deal.</span></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-6744179702155444242016-09-01T17:05:00.000-04:002016-09-01T17:05:30.741-04:00Singer 603E Needle Plate<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; vertical-align: baseline;"><img alt="GEDC0244.JPG" height="296" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/I301QHW48ViCCWqIZqmUQVZ8iTgjkwUWk0lXB48Qdco4GZV2gcvVODh48tmiJ-thsz4dWd_Ajx8pBihUq6D0ylycDDUpUaRYZQruKkRNlzCw7IX0UOCiU0BWb6U51HD4rBAo28zx" style="border: none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="400" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">Yesterday, I broke out a really nice 603E that I haven’t used in a long time. I oiled it up and was running it in and it was humming along perfectly - no rattles, squeaks, or clicks. At full speed, I moved the stitch width lever over to check out the zig zag without thinking to check whether a zig zag needle plate was installed - it wasn’t! Not only did the needle break, the straight stitch needle plate also broke.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; vertical-align: baseline;"><img alt="GEDC0247.JPG" height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gl9-GTC7rrLYJReWjAjr-OrDtBv0id7uI0J-05dQ50H_e8tUHG3EcCZs1r7ABwXgqVSydZoelcH439mRFIKdLHJqF9PDfDFl8PMhWz6KmT6DmjJTvajNYT6mxX8X3EXqi3mNAUo0" style="border: none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="395" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">Thinking that the 603 uses the same needle plate as many other slant needle Singers, I grabbed one from another machine sitting nearby.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; vertical-align: baseline;"><img alt="GEDC0220.JPG" height="400" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/cJJcyZr1QMKEitx_7pw6qWp0zHVl9jFWaaDkwDicngT4oqVQQK967NKGJMR2w8tEy-FIRme9mUC2FgCOt04LOhDSaeU24-V4oyitnU9k6Dmd3SswARZx0Es04rswJevzRk3zTI5R" style="border: none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="375" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">When I started up the 603 again, there was a clicking sound that wasn’t there before. My first thought was that a piece of the broken needle was somewhere down around the hook but close inspection dispelled that idea. While looking for the needle fragment, I realized that the clicking sound was not present when the needle plate was removed. Reinstalling the needle plate brought back the clicking sound. That indicated to me that the feed dog was probably hitting the underside of the needle plate. I could not feel any vibration on the plate, the feed dog was just kissing the underside of the plate.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">My next thought was that the needle plate I had cannibalized from another machine might be slightly bent so I robbed one from another slant needle machine. The clicking sound was still present. My next thought was that perhaps the 600 series machines used a different needle plate than the 400 and 500 series machines, I rummaged through my partial sets of 600 series attachments to find a needle plate that was actually supplied with a 600 series machine. I found one in the box of attachments that came with this machine, probably the only attachment set that has not gotten separated from its machine. Installing this newly-found needle plate, the clicking sound disappeared and the machine runs as smoothly as before my accident. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">Now, here’s the reason I felt this was worth blogging about: I have three different styles of needle plates for slant needle Singers, all with the same part number - 172200. While the plates are identical on the top, there are marked differences on the undersides.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; vertical-align: baseline;"><img alt="GEDC0249.JPG" height="105" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4K7MwhYzEWFEdifPrZa9kySjX3HYn-JqkMEp5X7Bcnwnfr951e0ce7-mlbZkNo2AikOYgadGR1z1b9hSbFuZBiGxqE8nAH0OVos5WCso9T84ah2UtTuXGQaUG7lz7RiwJPcwBO7Y" style="border: none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="400" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">The only plate that does not interfere with the feed dog is the one on the right. I am not going to pull off the needle plates on all my slant needle Singers to see which ones have which plate but I will be on the lookout for this in the future. On second thought, maybe I will pull all the needle plates so I can match up the needle plates with the correct machines but first, I need to figure out whether the plate on the left and the one in the center have any positive or negative effect and which machines perform best with either one.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">Ed</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;"><a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine Store</a></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-91371355868761756692016-08-16T08:00:00.000-04:002016-08-16T14:51:49.532-04:00Bernette MO-234 Serger<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWZK6XWkxH0taEN1iIzuFzJiy1S_uJp-BUqxQmxsuifhONNW8mfZCDdENU9JMKUsYQxoquLYRQQ3sjvT8b_i9apOgZ89F8536NBCa2hFI3FpKbLonNDAXqeV_RoHcf-p65NVLQ/s1600/GEDC0221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWZK6XWkxH0taEN1iIzuFzJiy1S_uJp-BUqxQmxsuifhONNW8mfZCDdENU9JMKUsYQxoquLYRQQ3sjvT8b_i9apOgZ89F8536NBCa2hFI3FpKbLonNDAXqeV_RoHcf-p65NVLQ/s320/GEDC0221.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">The other day, a friend gifted me with a Bernette MO-234 Serger. She said it had just quit working and was making a "funny noise". I don’t have enough experience with overlockers to agree to work on one for someone but she had already bought a replacement and just gave it to me to play with.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">I put a few drops of oil here and there and threaded it up - it worked perfectly. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">Then, I made four Christmas stockings for this Fall’s craft show and there was never a hiccup sewing through four layers of fabric and two layers of batting. The machine will probably take its place in my Rogue's Gallery of Unused Sergers, never to be used again.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw0GuPJBYV7gsVqlztONXt92iGI2vrSJbypypL_k21f-oYX3lUpaYag7-zDwWGTDO4_49ZlR_8JLDLjzxEUyokkiyKbHt0hM5BUhYx-DJSUF0U9194L6RdU92NfENyNArXhN_S/s1600/GEDC0220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw0GuPJBYV7gsVqlztONXt92iGI2vrSJbypypL_k21f-oYX3lUpaYag7-zDwWGTDO4_49ZlR_8JLDLjzxEUyokkiyKbHt0hM5BUhYx-DJSUF0U9194L6RdU92NfENyNArXhN_S/s320/GEDC0220.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">At this point, there is really no reason to write a post about this machine but, here’s my first issue:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">On the upper right corner of the machine is a tension assembly. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nnbI46QGKFs/V690YkpqJzI/AAAAAAAAB18/g9zq3G-MOHgOlmEmU_YFCRxgHlIivEFigCEw/s1600/GEDC0223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nnbI46QGKFs/V690YkpqJzI/AAAAAAAAB18/g9zq3G-MOHgOlmEmU_YFCRxgHlIivEFigCEw/s320/GEDC0223.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">That tension is not shown in any of the drawings of the machine in the manual and there is never any mention of it in the instructions. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv0Gzs4PnSqO9srfnNaf-2fO3dbnsBkKnbxoft0ucP-DzxUG_s2Q8LFmN9VvkvkCYyP-YmPUVgmnl2YOqAn4VC9G20k_czoxkzQunWhLv7Ri1ABlqUnRHsq0Hnm8fzeXRm2cLV/s1600/GEDC0224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv0Gzs4PnSqO9srfnNaf-2fO3dbnsBkKnbxoft0ucP-DzxUG_s2Q8LFmN9VvkvkCYyP-YmPUVgmnl2YOqAn4VC9G20k_czoxkzQunWhLv7Ri1ABlqUnRHsq0Hnm8fzeXRm2cLV/s320/GEDC0224.JPG" width="267" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;"> I would say it is for winding bobbins, except overlockers do not use bobbins, so I see absolutely no purpose for that tension assembly. Can anyone tell me why it’s there?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">Second issue: When I was opening up doors to check for lint deposits, a piece of translucent plastic fell out. It is about two inches wide, three inches long, and 1/2 inch thick.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">Again, I find no mention of this part in the manual and cannot find a place it should fit. How about some help there? If this item was floating around inside the machine, that could be the source of the "funny noise"</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">Ed</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;"><a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">Old Sewing Machines Store</a></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-22626916017582466652016-08-13T11:10:00.000-04:002016-08-13T11:10:03.783-04:00Unusual Singer Featherweight<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O5gfbwWaGEI/V682dSKIuII/AAAAAAAAB1k/EIlA7to4fbgvwA5hFs6aXHZo9SasblfywCEw/s1600/GEDC0231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O5gfbwWaGEI/V682dSKIuII/AAAAAAAAB1k/EIlA7to4fbgvwA5hFs6aXHZo9SasblfywCEw/s320/GEDC0231.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">A friend picked up a Singer Featherweight at an antique shop (first mistake). The seller told her it had been recently serviced and was good to go.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">The first thing I noticed when I flipped on the power switch was that the light did not come on. There was no light bulb in the socket.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">The presser foot installed was a gathering foot. That is not what you want for straight stitching. There was no straight stitch foot in the box of attachments.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">The installed needle had a burr on the point.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">The motor belt was too tight.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">There was thread caught in the bobbin case base.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;"><img alt="GEDC0228.JPG" height="505" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/IyQImQjg299IZbE_7DaxOxXBWPpsMrcnYjiceRwEyLG2_-AaYgK4lOnbqR_W7vpu1-_g8Xcc_2to6ZXBywimHmoiWjtTbn4YfnDqFFXOj0qng5JBQN4JuBBMWypY27jwDhSOMxkq" style="border: none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="427" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">There was a considerable amount of lint around the feed dog.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;"><img alt="GEDC0226.JPG" height="487" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/Q1dJpgGP0nq6v_lXRkyVSFhQOogJ6t2g4tXhq0nuR6qCo03KcPoWcHqaurb4QgZh7VY_UZcUL4lHnku-ff4kszQit7w5pPZPNy-IQutwGp437zymem9LD0Mld9-TQwk7dSCAGGFu" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="600" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">The bed cushions are all completely squashed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;"><img alt="GEDC0229.JPG" height="357" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/ZEXdklhBfjO_98wHVQXeKNfOArmqQRrg96K1Wl_rZ8zI1XABSN56cDRzdN6cDQ5KonhJJ67PB3_cdMAmgPprUSNqu43TezblVakB5bc7Nm-dIdRoO0aTAjvjrQxyO0kIS7gdguok" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="624" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">The gears are in dire need of grease and the rest of the mechanicals need oil.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">The good news is that it does sew. It might need a slight hook-to-needle adjustment, but that is minor.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">I have seen hundreds of Featherweights but this one was unusual in one respect - it had a generic motor installed.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vVG2-jqsuO8/V682dNxl0xI/AAAAAAAAB1g/Pqt-T6bErnYeZJbwl8Bi0bR42VvTidrMgCEw/s1600/GEDC0232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="274" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vVG2-jqsuO8/V682dNxl0xI/AAAAAAAAB1g/Pqt-T6bErnYeZJbwl8Bi0bR42VvTidrMgCEw/s320/GEDC0232.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">I understand why someone would want to do that because replacement motors retail for well over $150 while generic motors can be bought for around $20. The problem is that Featherweight motors have much different mounting provisions than all other sewing machines, making it impossible to attach a generic motor in place of the original motor.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">The previous owner overcame this by designing an adapter plate.</span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uLSUbl81N0U/V682dqoHOyI/AAAAAAAAB1o/uNsDDuBEDaE9kV-F6WTl065rAN8XVjXwwCEw/s1600/GEDC0234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uLSUbl81N0U/V682dqoHOyI/AAAAAAAAB1o/uNsDDuBEDaE9kV-F6WTl065rAN8XVjXwwCEw/s320/GEDC0234.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;"> The motor attaches to the adapter plate and the adapter plate attaches to the Featherweight motor mount. It is a very simple arrangement, just a flat piece of 1/8" steel plate with two holes to attach the new motor and an anchor nut at the FW motor mounting point</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">Unfortunately, the motor is mounted so high that the belt would hit the belt guard. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z7r-KN6gfZM/V682dCQZRvI/AAAAAAAAB1c/rHu9zEeYt9MyaUxCdpXdjdZcia7pehBgwCEw/s1600/GEDC0233.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z7r-KN6gfZM/V682dCQZRvI/AAAAAAAAB1c/rHu9zEeYt9MyaUxCdpXdjdZcia7pehBgwCEw/s320/GEDC0233.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;"> Instead of drilling a couple of holes to lower the motor and using a longer belt, the designer added an idler pulley to push the belt down to clear the guard.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">I have searched the internet to see if this is a commercial product and have found nothing even similar. I have a FW with a weak motor, maybe I'll design a similar adapter and install one of my spare motors.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;">Ed</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline;"><a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">Old Sewing Machines Shop on Etsy</a></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-63363930978127931232016-06-27T14:07:00.000-04:002016-06-27T14:07:01.169-04:00Singer 403 and Fitbit Bracelet<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNRsSjdjxIeSay2-44RuBjaQD9hMQPN8HTCoDw2jncvF8S79og3rzwMuyukRHEC7fH6oEBM2KVkQyKN3zhNpCJxie7bg4-_SUfRXXT1WrtT9KxjL4r8R1dbEQPe5rkdKgOkQwg/s1600/GEDC0181.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNRsSjdjxIeSay2-44RuBjaQD9hMQPN8HTCoDw2jncvF8S79og3rzwMuyukRHEC7fH6oEBM2KVkQyKN3zhNpCJxie7bg4-_SUfRXXT1WrtT9KxjL4r8R1dbEQPe5rkdKgOkQwg/s320/GEDC0181.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I am always looking for small (quick) projects to exercise my vintage machines. I have so many that they seldom get used and, like an automobile, letting one sitting idle is about the worst thing that you can do to either.<br />
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My daughter has a Fitbit that she wears religiously every day. Problem is, the rubbery bracelets produce a rash on her wrist. we have dozens of sewing machines and probably a ton of fabric in the house, so I volunteered to design a cotton holder for her Fitbit that would not cause a rash.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CENPjeyDJ-0/V3A_NKyMjPI/AAAAAAAAB0k/dR5QGwbf7Uw_xUpnjvCaoMAZba-gc2r3wCKgB/s1600/Fitbit%2BDiagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="114" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CENPjeyDJ-0/V3A_NKyMjPI/AAAAAAAAB0k/dR5QGwbf7Uw_xUpnjvCaoMAZba-gc2r3wCKgB/s320/Fitbit%2BDiagram.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is the design I came up with on the third attempt.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PRuTtt50AEI/V3A_RmBpaQI/AAAAAAAAB0k/x12D7FYWr44dkloSRSwbbjWZHsBzRGfYwCKgB/s1600/GEDC0168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="69" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PRuTtt50AEI/V3A_RmBpaQI/AAAAAAAAB0k/x12D7FYWr44dkloSRSwbbjWZHsBzRGfYwCKgB/s320/GEDC0168.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Begin with a strip of fabric 2 inches wide and 19 1/2 inches long.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qX6h26HCK6E/V3A_RqRvCcI/AAAAAAAAB0k/esv8GAjRqmMZCfy-GcqxNAhqhMkvgIlJgCKgB/s1600/GEDC0169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qX6h26HCK6E/V3A_RqRvCcI/AAAAAAAAB0k/esv8GAjRqmMZCfy-GcqxNAhqhMkvgIlJgCKgB/s320/GEDC0169.JPG" width="293" /></a></div>
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Fold 1/4 inch of the right side of the fabric over twice<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oo9lRIEPGGI/V3A_RzCGeVI/AAAAAAAAB0k/3SbxgdS4B7Q2iqKWD3jRExKB5Y7hOmMpwCKgB/s1600/GEDC0170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oo9lRIEPGGI/V3A_RzCGeVI/AAAAAAAAB0k/3SbxgdS4B7Q2iqKWD3jRExKB5Y7hOmMpwCKgB/s320/GEDC0170.JPG" width="256" /></a></div>
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and tack down.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQWhXDymLj8/V3A_SLtYfEI/AAAAAAAAB0k/6NdYJR_XQbY_VsTv6dMCSMfQHAOUuzQPACKgB/s1600/GEDC0171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="109" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQWhXDymLj8/V3A_SLtYfEI/AAAAAAAAB0k/6NdYJR_XQbY_VsTv6dMCSMfQHAOUuzQPACKgB/s320/GEDC0171.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Mark the center of the fabric strip and fold the tacked end up to center.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fvMLYr44lmM/V3A_SFw7STI/AAAAAAAAB0k/w8hhTTVaoZgiVTJXOKQyv8AK0i7ACeohwCKgB/s1600/GEDC0172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="158" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fvMLYr44lmM/V3A_SFw7STI/AAAAAAAAB0k/w8hhTTVaoZgiVTJXOKQyv8AK0i7ACeohwCKgB/s320/GEDC0172.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Fold the other end up to center and overlap the tacked end by 1/2 inch. Pin in place.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SW6pRZkK8uQ/V3A_SaX6tCI/AAAAAAAAB0k/zLiO7iBF02YjXmOSm9FeN-asDqxKjModwCKgB/s1600/GEDC0173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SW6pRZkK8uQ/V3A_SaX6tCI/AAAAAAAAB0k/zLiO7iBF02YjXmOSm9FeN-asDqxKjModwCKgB/s320/GEDC0173.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sew up both sides with a scant 1/2 inch seam.<br />
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Clip the corners.<br />
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And turn right side out.<br />
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To keep the Fitbit from sliding all the way to the end, sew stitches 2 3/4 inches from both ends.<br />
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Attach hook-and-loop (one to the top of the bracelet and one to the under side.<br />
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Slide the Fitbit in through the opening. push it all the way to the stitching and then work it back to center.<br />
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Initially, I was concerned that she would not be able to see the lights on the Fitbit and constructed the first prototype with a plastic window. She didn't like the looks of the window and says she can see the lights through the thin cotton fabric so she told me to make future models without the plastic window.<br />
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The old Singer worked flawlessly throughout the process but I noticed that while left and center needle positions were correct,<br />
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when right needle was selected, the needle only went slightly past center.<br />
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<br />
I suspect lubrication is the issue but I oiled every piece I could get to in the circuit and was unable to correct the situation. The odd part is that when sewing zig zag, the needle goes full throw left and right. I notice that the left-Center-Right selector "pops out" when left or center positions are selected but does not "pop out" when right is selected. That is where I will concentrate my efforts.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-50627569081764528142016-01-19T18:55:00.000-05:002016-01-19T18:55:16.253-05:00Singer 500a Will Not Form Zig Zag Stitch
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cbnVFR5_clM/Uki2Ptk0n2I/AAAAAAAAAo4/LqDX-qJ6beM/s1600/HPIM0899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cbnVFR5_clM/Uki2Ptk0n2I/AAAAAAAAAo4/LqDX-qJ6beM/s1600/HPIM0899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cbnVFR5_clM/Uki2Ptk0n2I/AAAAAAAAAo4/LqDX-qJ6beM/s320/HPIM0899.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">To keep all my old sewing machines limber, I like to take
them off the shelf occasionally and use them on a project. I really should tag each machine to tell me
when was the last time it was oiled and used but I’m just too lazy. Anyway, I pulled this Rocketeer off the
shelf, oiled it and tested the stitches.
I have no idea how long it had been sitting unused, maybe years.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Straight stitch was fine </span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aQwPQmGWaHo/Vp7IxGyQihI/AAAAAAAAByE/SkH4y5LyenQ/s1600/Straight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aQwPQmGWaHo/Vp7IxGyQihI/AAAAAAAAByE/SkH4y5LyenQ/s320/Straight.jpg" width="104" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aQwPQmGWaHo/Vp7IxGyQihI/AAAAAAAAByE/SkH4y5LyenQ/s1600/Straight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">but wide zig zag was not.
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3_F5kQMjQZc/Vp7IyzCrpiI/AAAAAAAAByU/RoCtgPF5KLM/s1600/Wide%2BZig%2BZag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3_F5kQMjQZc/Vp7IyzCrpiI/AAAAAAAAByU/RoCtgPF5KLM/s320/Wide%2BZig%2BZag.jpg" width="72" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I narrowed the stitch width and it got a wee bit better, but
still not in the acceptable range.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FiNk-acfgNM/Vp7IvcBup8I/AAAAAAAABx0/pt_64uWJoGw/s1600/Narrow%2BZig%2BZag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FiNk-acfgNM/Vp7IvcBup8I/AAAAAAAABx0/pt_64uWJoGw/s320/Narrow%2BZig%2BZag.jpg" width="45" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">My first thought was that the needle bar had been shoved up
in its clamp by hitting a button or zipper but the marks on the needle bar were
in the correct position so I knew that was not the cause.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xTOrnW3wydI/Vp7I05OG3iI/AAAAAAAABys/guNn95sKvQA/s1600/gedc0129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="279" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xTOrnW3wydI/Vp7I05OG3iI/AAAAAAAABys/guNn95sKvQA/s320/gedc0129.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The next thought was hook timing. The point of the hook should pass just above
the eye of the needle when the lower timing mark on the needle bar is at the
needlebar bushing. It was, so that was
not the issue.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nAp7hKTYJZY/Vp7I2nOVeXI/AAAAAAAABy0/lP7G3vPNvMk/s1600/gedc0130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="247" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nAp7hKTYJZY/Vp7I2nOVeXI/AAAAAAAABy0/lP7G3vPNvMk/s320/gedc0130.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">When I was watching the hook pass by the needle, I noticed
that there seemed to be a more-than-usual separation between the needle and the
hook point. The service manual says that
distance should be .018 inches but I measured it at .032 inches – almost twice
what it should be.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kYD_fQxW9F8/Vp7IzcAtq7I/AAAAAAAAByg/dPsCG9k1MKM/s1600/gedc0127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="255" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kYD_fQxW9F8/Vp7IzcAtq7I/AAAAAAAAByg/dPsCG9k1MKM/s320/gedc0127.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">To be sure that the needlebar was not bent, I installed a
size 18 needle and a straight stitch needleplate and checked where the needle
passed through the hole in the needleplate.
It looked just like the drawing in the service manual, so the needlebar
was not bent.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cbnVFR5_clM/Uki2Ptk0n2I/AAAAAAAAAo4/LqDX-qJ6beM/s1600/HPIM0899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6qLQEHg8FKg/Vp7I3qITSzI/AAAAAAAABy8/ViPLX4uq5ts/s1600/gedc0132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="270" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6qLQEHg8FKg/Vp7I3qITSzI/AAAAAAAABy8/ViPLX4uq5ts/s320/gedc0132.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jPfbL7Sab0I/Vp7IwvwSTNI/AAAAAAAAByI/Qumbdqgp05o/s1600/Needle%2BCentering.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jPfbL7Sab0I/Vp7IwvwSTNI/AAAAAAAAByI/Qumbdqgp05o/s320/Needle%2BCentering.jpg" width="292" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The next step was to move the hook closer to the needle. The service manual says to loosen the two
setscrews indicated by "O"</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EJ3nhNNOJ2g/Vp7Iz3kKFPI/AAAAAAAAByk/W1Ls-qxrFoo/s1600/Setting%2Bthe%2BHook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="259" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EJ3nhNNOJ2g/Vp7Iz3kKFPI/AAAAAAAAByk/W1Ls-qxrFoo/s320/Setting%2Bthe%2BHook.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">And move the entire hook saddle. It was easy enough, after loosening the two
screws, the hook saddle swivels around the shaft it is mounted on and the hook
point can be moved closer to or farther from the needle. I moved the hook as close to the needle as
possible without hitting it and tightened the screws.</span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I now still have good straight stitch and the narrow zig zag
is as it should be.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cbnVFR5_clM/Uki2Ptk0n2I/AAAAAAAAAo4/LqDX-qJ6beM/s1600/HPIM0899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fqj8q_qrOfs/Vp7Iwo5-2lI/AAAAAAAAByA/UVnCZlYezFA/s1600/After.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fqj8q_qrOfs/Vp7Iwo5-2lI/AAAAAAAAByA/UVnCZlYezFA/s320/After.jpg" width="121" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I am not getting the full width zig zag that the machine is
capable of, but that is a different problem that I will tackle later. </span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> Ed</span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine SHop</a></span></div>
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><span style="color: black;"></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-18648988257358263522016-01-09T09:23:00.000-05:002016-01-09T09:23:18.960-05:00Re-Wiring a Vintage Sewing Machine Foot Control<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VAAXPGSCd5DSBDXePaQVRYPTb7qG8GQBBRVWN1uSl5_Vh0d32kwhU_ffhvHLWj5cLGJV7GrMKBK2NaCTz7q-ZSU3ikxovDWSn8ep0T1ev34jIizi1B3gqag4Z983KUsdj0rV/s1600/Necchi+FC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VAAXPGSCd5DSBDXePaQVRYPTb7qG8GQBBRVWN1uSl5_Vh0d32kwhU_ffhvHLWj5cLGJV7GrMKBK2NaCTz7q-ZSU3ikxovDWSn8ep0T1ev34jIizi1B3gqag4Z983KUsdj0rV/s320/Necchi+FC.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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You bought a new foot control and want to connect it to your current cord; you bought a new cord and need to connect it to your current foot control; you bought a new cord and foot control and they came to you as separate pieces. The following should help you get that sewing machine running.<br />I used a vintage Necchi foot control in my example, but you should be able to decode your foot control, once you get it opened up.<br />
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Not all vintage foot controls look the same, but all 2-wire controls operate essentially the same – electrical current flows into the control; a resistance of some sort (carbon pile, resistance wire, etc) reduces the size of that current and sends it out to the motor.<br /><br />1. <span style="color: red;">Disconnect all electrical power before starting to avoid the possibility of shock or fire!!!</span><br />2. Tip the foot control over and locate the screws holding on the bottom cover. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI5trkLtzssEndBvJsskb_yczNbvzyLSy4h2eO45AvhAUTaoFbYAJ6pJke0exY1ifBrHDpHfrI24hrrG8dbGmdCraaVwWnP-peidnkiWb8jEkalOVdwyj-3JHRGYyJtm2vEGwv/s1600/GEDC0113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI5trkLtzssEndBvJsskb_yczNbvzyLSy4h2eO45AvhAUTaoFbYAJ6pJke0exY1ifBrHDpHfrI24hrrG8dbGmdCraaVwWnP-peidnkiWb8jEkalOVdwyj-3JHRGYyJtm2vEGwv/s320/GEDC0113.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Many vintage Asian-made foot controls have covers that just slide off, rather than being screwed on. I won’t discuss modern controllers because there are YouTube videos covering them. Remove the screws or slide off the bottom cover. Now is the time to look at any cushions surrounding the screws and obtain replacements for missing or deteriorated cushions.<br />3. If there is an insulation plate, remove it and set aside. Not all foot controls have them. <br />
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<br /><span style="color: red;">WARNING: Some controllers contain a capacitor to filter out radio noise. They usually look like small tin cans. Capacitors can store electricity, so do not touch the connection points to avoid shock.</span><br />
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4. At this point, look around for pieces that might fall out and get lost. This controller has a spring that is not attached in any way, some button controllers have an actuating button that can fall out. Remove any loose pieces, noting where they go so you can get them back in the right position.<br />
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<br />5. You are now ready to disconnect the old cord, if there is one. Just unscrew the two screws and lift the wires off.<br />
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<br />Preparing the New Cord</div>
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6. If the cord you are installing has terminals installed, skip to step 12.<br />7. Since you’re still here, your cord does not have terminals installed.</div>
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Terminals are available at Radio Shack and many hardware and home stores. I got mine at Harbor Freight and Lowe’s. Terminal sizes are denoted by the color of the insulation sleeve. For the size wire used by sewing machines, pink or red insulation sleeve is appropriate.<br />8. Strip about ½” of insulation from the wire ends.</div>
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<br />9. Insert the end of the wire into the terminal so that the wire insulation is well inside the terminal’s insulation sleeve and the stripped end of the wire peeks out beyond the end of the insulation sleeve.</div>
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<br />10. You can crimp the terminal with ordinary pliers, but a better result will be achieved with wire crimping pliers, like these with the yellow handle.</div>
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<br />11. Crimp the terminal close to the end of the insulation sleeve that covers the stripped wire end. You want the terminal to connect to the stripped wire, not the insulation.</div>
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<br />Installing the Cord</div>
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12. Installation is the reverse of removal. If you have space inside the controller, tie a knot in the wires to prevent them from sliding out through the exit hole. Connect the two wires to the two terminals. It makes no difference which wire goes to each terminal, a resistor can’t tell the difference which way current is flowing.</div>
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<br />13. Route the wires so that they do not interfere with any moving parts and out through the exit hole, slot, or whatever is there.<br />14. Replace any loose parts you removed in step 4.<br />15. Replace the insulating pad, if your controller has one.<br />16. Replace the bottom cover.<br />17. Connect to your sewing machine and Sew!</div>
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Ed</div>
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<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine Shop</a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-86973377507471811512016-01-06T11:16:00.002-05:002016-01-06T11:18:57.713-05:00BerninasWe had to go to LaPlata, Maryland yesterday and our appointment was just around the corner from Material Girls Quilt Shop, so Kathie insisted we stop by for a "quick look". It has been a while since I have visited that store, so while Kathie was petting fabric, I wandered around looking for sewing machines. The shop has expanded since I was last there and they have taken over a second storefront completely dedicated to Bernina sewing machines. Now, I do not sew enough to justify the price of a Bernina, but it's still fun to see them. As I walked into the showroom area, I immediately spotted a vintage machine in the front corner.<br />
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It was the first Bernina 117 I have ever seen in person, and this one is in pristine condition! I have seen them on eBay and always thought they looked cool, but at the time, an average specimen was selling for $400-$600, so I passed. I must have stood there ten minutes, just looking at the paint, decals, and chrome plate.</div>
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As I turned around to go back into the fabric section, I spotted a lineup of Berninas on a high shelf</div>
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It's like a graphic timeline of Berninas from the 1950s to 1980s(?) The place is like a mini-museum of Berninas and made me not mind stopping for a short time.<br />
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Ed<br />
<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine Store</a><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-20028954081241615952015-12-04T13:48:00.002-05:002015-12-04T13:55:48.227-05:00Adjustable Zipper Foot<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lK0DJANLLbU/VmHdXIk2kRI/AAAAAAAABt4/IuMbVi9gFfs/s1600/1788.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLdbknP7w-RgBs2-56ug9mNKGmmgCDdGNkpsTN0sMGm_f-WPe-1TigQQetwTZmQ3Gc-C55UuIYqzF8oMFjKrujU-LmxpqZZkLBDmfgvxIfMyqCDM_Rteycys8NxH3S5WUtE21P/s1600/Adjustable+Zipper+Foot.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLdbknP7w-RgBs2-56ug9mNKGmmgCDdGNkpsTN0sMGm_f-WPe-1TigQQetwTZmQ3Gc-C55UuIYqzF8oMFjKrujU-LmxpqZZkLBDmfgvxIfMyqCDM_Rteycys8NxH3S5WUtE21P/s320/Adjustable+Zipper+Foot.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Browsing through some orphan boxes of accessories, I found a presser foot I had never seen before. It is an adjustable zipper foot but it is different. All my other zipper feet have one toe<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lK0DJANLLbU/VmHdXIk2kRI/AAAAAAAABt4/IuMbVi9gFfs/s1600/1788.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="165" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lK0DJANLLbU/VmHdXIk2kRI/AAAAAAAABt4/IuMbVi9gFfs/s320/1788.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This one has two toes with a slot in the middle between the toes.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9Ks-lp27z0c/VmHgtjoY62I/AAAAAAAABuw/6g97F2xSXW8/s1600/Adjustable%2BZipper%2BFoot2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9Ks-lp27z0c/VmHgtjoY62I/AAAAAAAABuw/6g97F2xSXW8/s320/Adjustable%2BZipper%2BFoot2.jpg" width="287" /></a></div>
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It can sew on the left side<br />
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or on the right side<br />
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or straight stitch in between the toes. <br />
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And you don't have to change the foot to sew zippers, piping, or anything else you would use a zipper foot for - just loosen the thumbscrew in the back and slide the foot to the desired position. I can't believe that, with all my years of collecting sewing machines, I have never before seen a foot quite like this.<br />
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This provides a much better product when straight stitching because the foot spans both rows of feed dog, not only one row. Fabric should feed straighter and more evenly with twice the feed dog contact.<br />
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I have been using this foot on my Anker RZ for all the sewing I do on that machine except zig zag. The only foot I have is high shank and the only high shank machine I have out and set up for sewing is the Anker so it was a natural pairing.<br />
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Since I like the foot so much, I searched for a source so I could add them to the inventory of my Etsy shop. I have found them in high shank, low shank, and Singer slant shank. <br />
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Ed<br />
<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine Shop</a><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-5060399398619172802015-11-10T11:11:00.000-05:002015-11-10T11:11:48.213-05:00Pfaff Hobbylock 774Last week, a lady brought her Babylock Pro-Line serger by for a cleaning and to have the knives replaced. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1_bDOblOZxg8pjyvcBeO-A4VMAAmuM5PCLfeqA6jpGkFwXhHyXgxpOlsqJWwA081AQC-S2WKHbzhHw-eMW7sKLeE0Lc0gqF8YpRIdk7THaVDh3SONa0zDEQEkSmBOtLf4ulv_/s1600/GEDC0104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1_bDOblOZxg8pjyvcBeO-A4VMAAmuM5PCLfeqA6jpGkFwXhHyXgxpOlsqJWwA081AQC-S2WKHbzhHw-eMW7sKLeE0Lc0gqF8YpRIdk7THaVDh3SONa0zDEQEkSmBOtLf4ulv_/s320/GEDC0104.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The machine had been sitting idle for some time and had gotten stiff, so I had to go fairly deep into it to restore lubrication to all the moving parts and had to resort to YouTube for instructions on adjusting the new knives because I had never replaced knives before.<br />
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That got me in the mood to tackle one of my three seldom-used sergers to see if it was still in working condition. I made the choice which one to work on by turning the balance wheels. The Brother and the Babylock both turned freely <br />
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but the Pfaff was frozen solid - I couldn't turn the wheel at all!<br />
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I picked up this serger fairly cheap because it had significant rust. You can't see much of the rust in these photos because (a) I have cleaned some off and (b) the really serious rust is inside where you can't see it.<br />
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I wish I had taken photos when I had all the covers off but I got too impatient to see if it was fixed to go get the camera and take pics. Threading a serger is difficult enough that I was not going to un-thread just for a photo op.<br />
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The biggest problem (after oiling and freeing up the mechanism) was that the lower looper timing was way off. All I got was a series of parallel needle holes on the fabric with no interlocking thread at all. Fortunately, I had a service manual for the Hobbylock 794 which was close enough to provide all the necessary adjustments and clearances. The serger now works the way it should, even if it is not the prettiest one I own.<br />
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Even though I rarely use a serger, I felt this effort was worthwhile because I learned a lot about how one works. Before this, I thought there was a little magic box inside the case that made all the fancy stitches happen - now I know it is just a bunch of levers and bellcranks and it no longer mystifies me.<br />
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<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine Store</a><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-29061593057780319102015-10-20T16:00:00.000-04:002015-10-20T16:00:23.706-04:00Kenmore 385.1684180Even though it has the slide plate that turns under the seam allowance, I really like my 385.17881 Kenmore because it is so smooth and quiet. <br />
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I always consider those traits to be an indicator of the quality of the machine. Unfortunately, when I got it, the stitch length dial was very difficult to turn and I tried to loosen things up with a heat gun, melting some teeth on the plastic gear behind the stitch length dial. I was able to reposition the gear so that the missing teeth were not where they would affect stitch length selection, but the dial still turns very hard and I only have stitch lengths of 10-12. I have been looking for a replacement for that machine, hoping to find the exact model needing work so I could cannibalize parts from my current machine to rehab the new one.<br />
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I still haven't found the exact model replacement, but I saw this 385.1684180 on an online auction.<br />
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The style lines are very similar to the 385.17881 and it has the same rotating hook and drop-in bobbin, so I bid on it, hoping it would be as smooth and quiet as the 385.17881.<br />
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When I received the 385.1684180, I saw that it appears to have been well-used, but not abused. The light bulb was burned out and the plastic bushings that hold in both spool pins are broken. Sears Parts Direct had the bushings in stock and they are on the way to me. The bobbin area was very clean, making me think the machine had been well cared for, but when I opened the bottom covers, a lint ball the size of a plum fell out! It had been cleaned from above, but never went in for a professional servicing. There was also a lot of gummy substance on many of the surfaces underneath, including the hook gear. I tried to clean it off with mineral oil, alcohol, and several other substances but scraping it off seemed to be the only way to remove it.<br />
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Those issues were easy to fix but one was more difficult - it would not stitch in reverse. Pressing the reverse button had no effect, it just kept going forward. Tracing out the linkage from the Reverse button, I found that there are two springs and a collar that slides along the hook shaft. <br />
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When the collar is to the right, the machine sews forward. When the collar slides to the left, the feed dog travel is altered so the fabric feeds in reverse. <br />
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Here's how it works:<br /> The spring near the Reverse button (not shown in these photos) is stronger than the spring down by the collar (in yellow circle).<br /> When the Reverse button is pressed, the weaker spring is allowed to slide the collar (in the red circle) to the left for Reverse.<br /> When the Reverse button is released, the stronger spring pulls the rod (in blue) and overrides the weaker spring and slides the collar to the right for forward sewing.<br />
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I could feel that the collar was not moving freely and spent two days trying to free it up. After lubing and exercising the collar and hook shaft for hours with no results, I accidentally knocked the arm from the weaker spring out of its track and found that the collar itself was actually free-moving, it was the arm from the weaker spring to the collar that was binding. I had oiled the pivot point of that arm in the very beginning but that was not enough. I removed the arm and spring, cleaned everything well and re-lubricated. The Reverse button now works as advertised and the machine sews backward as well as forward. <br />
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FORWARD</div>
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REVERSE</div>
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Ed</div>
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<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine Parts Shop</a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-33230054766930740602015-09-17T15:32:00.001-04:002015-09-17T15:32:31.784-04:00Singer 20U33<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I have an industrial 20U33 that I like to sew on. It is smooth, strong, and quiet and makes a perfect stitch. It also has a 9mm zig zag, which I rarely take advantage of but I know it's there if I need a wide zig zag.<br />
I have had it mounted in a power stand from a Singer 95-10 that went away years ago.<br />
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I like the table because of its solid wood top that I intend to refinish some day and the flip-up leaf that extends the sewing surface. Problem is, the ancient clutch motor has four wires protruding from it and I can find no documentation how to hook up the wires to make the motor operational.<br />
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To substitute for the missing clutch motor, I installed my largest family machine motor - a 1.3 amp model from a White. <br />
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The treadle did not allow the foot control to be positioned in a comfortable location so I wedged it under the far end of the treadle and depress the treadle to actuate the speed control, just like I would if the clutch motor were working. <br />
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This setup allowed me to sew but there was no light. I tried a stick-on LED light but it did not provide adequate illumination in the proper direction. <br />
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A tabletop Ott Lite provided illumination but I was constantly knocking it over.<br />
To the rescue was a Singer 252 <br />
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with a broken plastic gear in the upper section.<br />
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I was able to find a replacement gear but see no way to replace it without removing the main shaft - a task I do not wish to undertake - so it is now a parts donor. <br />
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The first donation was the foot control, motor and attached light. They fit perfectly on the 20U33 and I now have a machine I like to use with enough light to see what I'm doing.<br />
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Ed</div>
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<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine Parts Shop</a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-53666228208147005492015-09-08T15:30:00.000-04:002015-09-08T15:30:40.510-04:00Singer Auto-Reel<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This week, I had the pleasure of working on the first model of Touch & Sew made by Singer. It is a model 600 but the model number is not displayed in the usual place, it just says "Auto-Reel" and the wind-in-place bobbin is placed in wind mode using a push-down button.<br />
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Later versions of the 600 and its descendants had the winding mechanism actuating button under the slide plate.<br />
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When I saw the machine, I assumed there would be little to do other than oil and grease because it looks as though it has been used very little. No paint chips, scratches, needle strikes, or other signs of wear. It was noisy running, indicating that some time had passed since its last lubrication, so that's where I started. After oiling and greasing, I tested the various functions and found that (a) the release mechanism was not latching and<br />
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(b) the needle would not return to the right in zig zag.<br />
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The zig zag problem was easy to figure out, there was a broken spring lying in the bottom of the housing.<br />
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I couldn't find a new replacement and none of my parts machines used the identical spring, even though the part number for the spring in the 500 is the same. I found a similar spring in my parts bin that was longer and cut it down to the same length as the old spring.<br />
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After replacing the spring, the release mechanism would still not latch and clattered back and forth with every rotation of the shaft. The service manual tells how to adjust that mechanism but says, "Be sure stitch pattern selectors are properly engaged. Otherwise, machine will not engage when in operation." I looked at the pattern selectors, and, sure enough, the lower selector was not popping out when moved to position "A".<br />
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I started tracing out the mechanism to find the reason and saw that the rear index pin was full of crud <br />
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and I assumed that the lever would not lock into the slot because of that. <br />
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After removing the index pin, cleaning, reinstalling and readjusting, there was no improvement. The cam followers were at the correct position but the indicator on the front of the machine was not. When the cam followers were in the straight stitch position, the indicator read "C" instead of "A". Back to the service manual and adjusting the indicator. Once the indicator and the cam followers agreed, the selector button popped out as it should and everything worked fine, sort of.<br />
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On to testing the stitches and I noticed there was less than 1/4" clearance under the presser foot. Normally that is an easy adjustment, but on this series of machines, the presser foot pressure adjuster <br />
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must be removed to access the presser bar clamping screw. <br />
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Removing is not a problem, reinstalling is a bit troublesome.<br />
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With all those adjustments and repairs, straight stitch worked properly but zig zag would only catch on one side. That normally means that either the presser bar height is incorrect or the hook is not timed to the needle. In this case, it was the hook timing. When the hook point was supposed to be even with the needle, it was about 10 degrees off.<br />
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After spending much of my Labor Day weekend tinkering with this machine, today I finally put it all back together, wiped off the greasy fingerprints and sewed a successful test swatch. I hope the next one is a bit easier, although I enjoyed the challenge and learned a lot from this one.<br />
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Ed<br />
<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine Parts Store</a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-22022703641589005092015-09-04T18:48:00.000-04:002015-09-04T18:48:34.415-04:00Singer 6267<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Yesterday, a friend gifted (cursed?) me with a Singer 6267. She said it had been in storage for some time and then left in a hot car for a day and the next time she ran it, it was stiff and ran slow. She replaced the machine and now, if I didn't want it, she would donate it. It came with a goodly assortment of accessories and one of the two manuals.<br />
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Being a sucker for a free sewing machine, I took it home. I cleaned lint out of the gear teeth in the lower section and oiled all the spots I could get to but cannot figure out how to remove the top lid. If anyone knows the secret to that, please clue me in. I was able to download the second manual from Singer so I could figure out how to wind a bobbin and remove the bobbin case for cleaning.<br />
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Anyway, it sews fine, all the stitches I tried worked fins and it sews with all the speed I would expect, albeit a bit noisy.<br />
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The only thing I can find wrong is the slot to the right of the upper tension adjustment, where the thread is supposed to lie, is too tight for thread to comfortably fit in the slot, it has to be forced. I need to find where to open up that slot.<br />
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I sewed a couple of quilt blocks for a pillow and everything worked as advertised.<br />
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The jury;s still out on whether I will keep this machine or not, it's newer and more complicated than the rest in my stable and it has the type of slide plate that folds back the seam allowances as you sew. I can get used to lifting the fabric as a seam allowance slides across the bobbin cover but don't feel that I should need to do that, I have plenty of machines that don't require me to trick them into sewing well. I do like the LOW BOBBIN warning light, too many times I have sewn seams with no thread in the bobbin.<br />
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Ed</div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-60041889139439043682015-07-27T18:28:00.000-04:002015-07-27T18:28:02.050-04:00Loops or Knots on the Underside of the FabricAnother in the series of troubleshooting tips. Tips are not in order of most common to least common and do not need to be performed in sequence. Pick the easiest ones first and work to the more difficult ones. Not all tips will apply to all machines.<br />
<br />The lower thread lies straight on the underside of fabric and the upper thread appears there in form of loops or small knots.<br />
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1. Cause: The tension of the upper thread is too weak or the tension of the lower thread is too tight.<br /> Solution: Tighten the tension of the upper thread, or loosen the tension of the lower thread, until the tensions of both threads are correctly balanced.<br />
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2. Cause: There are dirt, lint or pieces of thread between the Tension Discs.<br /> Solution: Take apart the upper tension, clean the Tension Discs thoroughly, then replace the upper tension and adjust it correctly.<br />
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3. Cause: The upper thread has cut deep grooves into the Tension Discs.<br /> Solution: Replace the defective Tension Discs with new ones.<br />
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4. Cause: The Bobbin Case is not threaded correctly. The Bobbin unwinds itself in the wrong direction.<br /> Solution: Thread the Bobbin Case correctly.<br />
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5. Cause: The head of the Tension Adjusting Screw of the Bobbin Case protrudes too much and catches and retards the upper thread.<br /> Solution: Adjust this screw correctly. If this condition continues to persist, smoothen the head of this screw with fine emery cloth or replace the defective screw with a new one.<br />
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6. Cause: The stitch hole in the Throat Plate or Feed Dog is too small.<br /> Solution: Replace the Throat Plate or Feed Dog with one that has a larger stitch hole.<br />
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7. Cause: The point of the Needle is bent over ("hooked point").<br /> Solution: Replace the defective Needle with a new one.<br />
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8. Cause: The Bobbin is not evenly wound. It unwinds itself irregularly.<br /> Solution: Replace the Bobbin with one that is wound evenly.<br />
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9. Cause: The Bobbin is damaged or bent and does not revolve freely and evenly.<br /> Solution: Replace the defective Bobbin with a new one.<br />
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10. Cause: Lint or dirt in the Bobbin Case prevents the Bobbin from revolving freely.<br /> Solution: Remove all dirt from this part. Clean and dry thoroughly before replacing in the machine.<br />
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11. Cause: The needle is not correctly timed in relation to the Loop Taker (Hook).<br /> Solution: Make certain that the Needle is pushed all the way up into the Needle Bar and held there firmly. Adjust the point of the Loop Taker in relation to the Needle. For "Timing" follow this general rule: The Needle must have risen about 3/32 of an inch from its lowest position at the moment the point of the Loop Taker is just at the center of the rising Needle. At this moment the point of the Loop Taker must be about 1/16 of an inch above the eye of the Needle.<br />
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12. Cause: There is insufficient clearance between the Bobbin Case Holder and the Bobbin Case Holder Position Bracket in horizontal axis Rotary Hook Machines. On vertical axis rotating hook types may be insufficient clearance between tab extending from Bobbin Case to the left and the notch at the underside of the Throat Plate.<br /> Solution: Turn the machine by hand and observe where the upper thread gets caught.<br />Increase the clearance, where required, by carefully removing material from the component parts of the machine (by means of fine emery cloth). Smoothen the repaired portions with crocus cloth. The heaviest thread to be used must pass freely between these parts.<br />
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13. Cause: The mechanism for releasing the upper thread tension is incorrectly adjusted. It releases the tension of the upper thread too early.<br /> Solution: Adjust this mechanism so that the tension of the upper thread is released only during the last moment of the upward motion of the Presser Bar Lifter.<br />
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14. Cause: The upper thread gets caught somewhere below the Throat Plate.<br /> Solution: Examine Hook and Bobbin Case with regard to rough spots which may catch the upper thread and retard it, thus causing the loops on the underside of the fabric. Eliminate all rough spots with the aid of an oilstone or with fine emery cloth, and then polish these portions with crocus cloth or on a buffing wheel.<br />
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15. Cause: The Thread Take-up Spring (Check Spring) is not adjusted and does not work properly.<br /> Solution: Adjust the Thread Take-up Spring until it has the correct tension and its upward motion is just finished at the moment the Needle enters the fabric.<br />
<br />
Ed<br />
<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine Shop</a><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-7528034264078263952015-07-21T18:38:00.003-04:002015-07-21T18:38:22.327-04:00Ankers Aweigh!Ankers Aweigh!<br />
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In my effort to downsize, I have been culling through my stock of sewing machines with an eye to disposing any that don't please me. I put this Anker RZ on the shelf years ago for some reason I couldn't remember and decided to break it out and make a final decision. <br />
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The machine had not been used in several years but I fired it up and sewed a test swatch. It sewed beautifully! I oiled it and sewed a larger project and find it to be one of the nicest machines I have ever used. It is smooth, quiet, and strong and sews everything I have put under the presser foot without complaining.<br />
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I received my new camera today and am now able to get some good photos and don't have to rely on old cell phones for pictures to post.<br />
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It's hard to read the badge but it says "ANKER WORKS BIELEFELD GERMANY".<br />
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Like all German sewing machines, it appears to be well-engineered and was probably an expensive machine in its day.<br />
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<br />
I particularly like the bobbin winder, it is designed like the old Singer winders with a finger that moves back and forth across the bobbin to ensure a smooth, even winding.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SbFjqVL3UPM/Va7IsvRoHaI/AAAAAAAABmc/mVmFs-XPd3s/s1600/ANKERBW.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SbFjqVL3UPM/Va7IsvRoHaI/AAAAAAAABmc/mVmFs-XPd3s/s320/ANKERBW.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I haven't figured out what the pad is below the balance wheel, it is stationary and the only purpose I can imagine it could serve is as a pincushion. <br />
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That would keep owners from pinning a piece of fabric to the arm and scratching the paint with pins.<br />
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I think this one is a keeper, makes me want to dig out the Haid & Neu and give it a spin!<br />
<br />
EdAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-90050982001303639992015-07-10T17:19:00.000-04:002015-07-13T19:27:10.740-04:00Signature URR277E :UPDATEWhile trolling through thrift shops in the Harrisburg, PA area, I found a machine that had been eluding me for years. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkv46_u0wmdjay8_5Jni3V5BxNGpya118XdsGqfIlT-X9aQEVOpf8vI2qvojG2cH42J1YxwSEjBnmwJTtiqC0M1HFKrpTfKuIpSX53aZHRNT2z14npM6Hx69ryMSBl7LRO2I-x/s1600/Signature.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkv46_u0wmdjay8_5Jni3V5BxNGpya118XdsGqfIlT-X9aQEVOpf8vI2qvojG2cH42J1YxwSEjBnmwJTtiqC0M1HFKrpTfKuIpSX53aZHRNT2z14npM6Hx69ryMSBl7LRO2I-x/s320/Signature.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Montgomery-Ward Signature sewing machines were made by the HAPPY sewing Machine Company of Japan and I had been told that HAPPY made excellent machines and I wanted to see for myself. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeIj04xFHKuMU7OhIEPJzANDJTzPppqDd_ueLDOzADzanh9c_w7QSTZfTPsEacZoY7ngk30Jbc_hOpfP_MPuoYp4vZs4GElGHJc_kCg4Pu8DDJt4ao0RIRYoJiAtt58EvCgglp/s1600/SigHappy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeIj04xFHKuMU7OhIEPJzANDJTzPppqDd_ueLDOzADzanh9c_w7QSTZfTPsEacZoY7ngk30Jbc_hOpfP_MPuoYp4vZs4GElGHJc_kCg4Pu8DDJt4ao0RIRYoJiAtt58EvCgglp/s320/SigHappy.jpg" width="174" /></a></div>
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Until last week, I had never found one in good enough condition at a price I was willing to pay. The hardest part was having to leave it in the car for the last three days of our vacation because I had no tools, cleaning supplies, or oil in the hotel room.<br />
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I was able to take the manual into the hotel room and peruse it and I noticed that this machine requires a cam to sew zig zag. I didn't notice a cam installed when I bought it and the machine came with no accessories. For the rest of our trip, I was thinking of alternatives - would a Singer 306/319 cam fit? probably not. Could I manufacture a cam from Lucite? Maybe. How would I determine the dimensions? All my worrying was in vain because when I opened the lid on arriving home, I saw the zig zag cam installed. There are other cams but I would never use them, all my sewing is straight stitch and occasional zig zag to form a buttonhole.<br />
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When I got the machine on the bench, the first problem I noticed was that the tension discs did not release when the presser bar was lifted. A quick look inside the cover showed that the tension release pin was missing. This is a bad sign because it indicates that the tension has been disassembled by someone who did not know how to reassemble it. As I would expect, none of my salvaged pins was the correct length and I had to manufacture one from a finish nail.<br />
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When I had the tension assembly removed to install the tension release pin, I noticed that there was no check spring.<br />
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I have tinkered with a lot of tension assemblies and seen very few that do not have a check spring, so I consulted the manual. Sure enough, the diagram of the machine clearly shows a check spring.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d_zSLZhjoQY/VaRGwHokgHI/AAAAAAAABlc/b3QtUw-mvV8/s1600/SigCheckSpring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="145" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d_zSLZhjoQY/VaRGwHokgHI/AAAAAAAABlc/b3QtUw-mvV8/s320/SigCheckSpring.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Apparently the check spring broke and the person who disassembled the tension replaced it with a slightly different spring.<br />
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The new spring was too long and pushed the tension discs beyond the slot for the thread so the thread sat behind the discs, rather than between them. I did have a salvaged check spring but had to modify it to make it fit correctly.<br />
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The motor belt slipped on startup several times but the belt was tight enough and the machine was loose enough that it should not have had that problem. Several yards of thread had wrapped around the motor pulley, lifting the belt out of the v-groove so it did not have enough contact to drive the balance wheel.<br />
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With those problems corrected, I threaded it up and tried to sew.<br />
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- On the first pass, NOTHING! The needle would not even bring up the bobbin thread. The needle bar was about 1/4" too high and the hook didn't come close to the eye of the needle to catch the upper thread.<br />
- On the second pass, straight stitch worked fine but zig zag only made a stitch on zig, not on zag.<br />
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- Lowered the needle bar a bit more and zig worked every stitch but zag skipped every now and again.<br />
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- Finally, after the third needle bar height adjustment, zig zag and tension are both perfect.<br />
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Now to find a project to sew.<br />
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UPDATE: It turned out that the needle bar was not too high. There is a screw in the back of the needle bar<br />
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The end of the screw's shaft is in the slot where the needle sits. <br />
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The purpose of that screw is to set the exact place where the needle sits in the needle clamp. I didn't notice that screw was missing and installed the needle too high up in the needle bar, giving the effect of the needle bar too high in its clamp. Fortunately, I had one of those screws in my parts bin and was able to fix the problem. Then, it was a matter of re-setting the needle bar to the correct height.<br />
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I apologize for the crappy photos, all my cameras are broken and I'm using my daughter's old cell phone as a camera until I find a camera I like.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-21685810516018909272015-04-24T17:04:00.000-04:002015-04-24T17:04:03.321-04:00Orphan Needle PlatesToday, I need some help. Over the years, I have acquired hundreds of sewing machines. Some of them are not worth rehabilitating, so I salvage usable parts and recycle the metal bodies. I try to keep salvaged parts separated - I have a Necchi box, a Viking box, etc. However, sometimes when I buy a sewing machine, especially one in a cabinet, there are parts in the drawers from the previous owner's former machines. I also have been known to purchase lots of sewing machine parts on Ebay to get one or two needed items and taking the rest as "frosting on the cake".<br />
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Here are two throat plates that I an hoping someone will recognize and tell me what machine they go to so I can label and sort them. Due to their rectangular shape, I am guessing they both came from freearm machines, but that may not be the case. Both are photographed on graph paper with 1/4" squares to give an idea of size. Neither has any manufacturer logo, name, or part number on it.<br />
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The first should be easy, if the right person sees this post.<br />
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It has a sliding finger on the underside that slides right under the needle hole at one position and completely out of the thread path in the other position. Looks to me as though it might be provide chainstitch capability.<br />
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The second might be tougher because it has nothing to distinguish it, like the sliding finger above.<br />
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It is just a plain, rectangular throat plate with 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch marks.<br />
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Please let me know if you recognize either of these so I can remove them from the generic parts box and get them where they belong or find<br />
<br />
someone who needs them.<br />
<br />
EdAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26975001.post-15276962755587745022015-04-09T16:56:00.002-04:002015-04-09T16:56:30.418-04:00My Machine Turns Heavily or JamsAnother in the series of troubleshooting tips. Tips are not in order of most common to least common and do not need to be performed in sequence. Pick the easiest ones first and work to the more difficult ones. <br />
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1a. Cause: Sewing thread has wedged itself between the balance wheel and the arm of the machine.<br /> Solution: Take off the balance wheel and remove the thread.<br />
1b. Cause: Thread has wrapped itself around the hook shaft.<br />
Solution: remove the thread from the hook.<br />
1c. Cause: Thread has wrapped itself around the pivot point of the take-up lever.<br />
Solution: Remove the thread from the take-up lever and oil the point because the thread has soaked up all the existing oil.<br />
1d. Cause: Thread has become wedged between the bobbin case and the bobbin case base.<br />
Solution: If the thread cannot be easily removed, disassemble the hook and remove the thread.<br />
2. Cause: There is too much pressure on the fabric.<br /> Solution: Reduce the pressure of the presser foot.<br />
3. Cause: The feed dog rubs against the sides of the slots in the throat plate.<br /> Solution: Loosen somewhat the screws that hold the feed dog to the feed bar, then adjust the feed dog so that it can move freely in the slots of the throat plate. Tighten the feed dog screws firmly after this adjustment. If throat plate slots are badly damaged, replace the throat plate.<br />
4. Cause: Due to accumulation of dirt and gummed oil between the throat plate and the feed dog, the feed dog presses against the underside of the throat plate.<br /> Solution: Remove throat plate and clean it. Also clean the parts of the machine to which these parts are attached.<br />
5. Cause: The belt running to the balance wheel is too tight.<br /> Solution: Adjust or replace the belt. The belt should have just enough tension so as not to slip.<br />
6. Cause: Dirt, thread, and pieces of broken needles have wedged between the bobbin case holder and the hook.<br /> Solution: Disassemble these parts, clean them thoroughly, and replace them on the machine.<br />
7. Cause: The bearings of the machine are tight due to rust or the use of improper oil. The oil may be gummed in the bearings; there may also be dirt in the bearings.<br /> Solution: Squirt the recommended solvent into all bearings and run the machine for a while. Oil the machine afterwards with good sewing machine oil. Do not use thick oil or vegetable oils.<br />
8. Cause: One or several parts inside the machine are tight. This may be due to improper assembly, lack of oil, or bent parts.<br /> Solution: Disassemble the machine systematically, always trying whether it turns freely or not. Stop disassembling once you can turn it freely. Examine all removed parts and repair or replace them as necessary. Clean all parts thoroughly in a recommended solvent. Assemble the machine carefully, making sure it turns freely every time a part has been inserted. Oil the machine properly after it has been reassembled.<br />
9. Cause: The thread take-up lever is bent.<br /> Solution: Remove the thread take-up lever and straighten it, if possible. Replace the lever if it is badly defective.<br />
10. Cause: The throat plate is bent downward due to repeated dropping of the presser foot. As a result, the feed dog rubs against the underside of the throat plate.<br /> Solution: Place the old throat plate. Top surface down, on a flat surface and straighten it by tapping it carefully with a hammer. If badly distorted, replace the throat plate with a new one.<br />
11. Cause: The needle bar is bent.<br /> Solution: Remove the needle bar and turn the balance wheel by hand. If the machine turns easily now, it indicates that the needle bar is bent. Straighten the bent needle bar on a flat surface, if possible. If the old needle bar is defective beyond repair, replace with a new needle bar.<br />
12. Cause: The tail of the main shaft is bent. This can happen if the machine was dropped or the balance wheel was bumped.<br />
Solution: Watch the balance wheel as it rotates. If it wobbles, that is an indication that the main shaft tail might be bent. Remove the balance wheel and rotate the main shaft so that the bent tail is pointing up. Place a block of wood on the shaft tail and hit the wood block with a hammer, just hard enough to bend the shaft back to the proper position. Do not hit the shaft directly with the hammer, that will damage the soft metal of the shaft and prevent the balance wheel from fitting on the shaft.<br />
<br />
Ed<br />
<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/oldsewingmachines" target="_blank">Ed's Vintage Sewing Machine Shop</a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06057276731453019090noreply@blogger.com0